(Changing the date of this post from its original 1/22/2009 to today so that it moves up in my list since folks have been asking for this info rather a lot lately! Part 1: Prepping the fabric Irish Dance dress embroidery…nowadays there is no clear cut definition of what this should look [...]
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New Dress, etc…
Another new dress, this one made by Mary Jo Farr of Trefoil Designs.


I did the embroidery, fooling with the design to get what MJ wanted. This is one of my designs, a diagonal (obviously), based on TA-AD 1. I will get it up in the store soon, but as usual, if you want it sooner rather than later, email me.
I love doing these dress, MJ!! This is one of the prettiest we have done yet!
Also have the first ribbon bodice digitized. This can be either a stitch fill or an applique. I will get it in the store, but it is available sooner if you want it.



Taoknitter Arts Designs: Susan Gowin
There are currently 2 design sets from Susan available on Taoknitter Arts: Irish Dance Dress Designs & Embroidery. Click anywhere below to get to a page of dress ideas. Please keep in mind that I am still available to help you create your dream dress in any way I can! More designs are on the way!
Taoknitter Arts Designs: Ann Donahue
There are currently 2 design sets from Ann Donahue available on Taoknitter Arts: Irish Dance Dress Designs & Embroidery. Click anywhere below to get to a page of dress ideas. Please keep in mind that I am still available to help you create your dream dress in any way I can! More designs are on the way!
Taoknitter Arts Designs: Terri Epperson, Majestic Dress Designs
Dressmaker & Embroiderer: Terri Epperson, Majestic Dress: Custom Irish Dance Dresses
Embroidery Designer & Digitizer: Me

Just wonderful, Terri!!
Satin Stitch Lattice Tutorial
Nov 27
This gallery contains 13 photos.
(The author of this post, Paddy Kelleher, has graciously allowed me to post this tutorial which is fantastic. Thank you, Paddy!) For this embroidery I consulted the talented Summerset. She uses a lot of lattice in her wearable art pieces so I asked for some advice, which she graciously provided. Lattice satin stitch all-over embroidery [...]
Reproduction Dress Finished!
Here is the reproduction of a hand embroidered dress that I was privileged to work on with Colleen Murphy and Kristine Baker. Colleen makes the most wonderful American Girl Irish dance dresses, and she asked me to digitize the embroidery from photos of the original, human-sized dress. Kristine Baker crocheted the collar, which Colleen says is a beautiful, perfect replica of the original.










And here is the owner of the original dress IN the dress (I am SOOO impressed) with the doll dress. I cannot stop looking at this pic!!

I have been researching the Book of Kells lately, and having now seen the sources of the images on the dress, I am in awe of the work the original embroiderer did. Spectacular!
Thank you so very much for letting me be a part of this, Colleen!!!
You can read more about the adventure here: Newest Endeavor and Reproduction Dress Test as well as on Colleen’s site, Murphy Dresses.
Embroidering on Cranky Velvet
Sep 14
A client sent me fabric to embroider. Velvet. I have not met a velvet I cannot embroider…until now. I have worked with a huge array of different stretch velvets, microfiber velvets, cotton velvets, very plush velvets, silk velvets (my least favorite for embroidering, let alone sewing no matter how beautiful it is), and the longest haired velvet [...]
Using Sticky-back Stabilizer
Jun 11
If you look online for tutorials involving sticky stabilizer, you are told to cut your length of the stabilizer and then put it, paper back and all, into the outside hoop. You are then told to score an area and pull off the paper to expose an area that you can adhere your fabric to. I [...]
Waxed Paper!!!!
May 15
So there I was, working on some shawl patches for a client. Beautiful silk velvet…I would be happy in silk velvet sheets. I was using the sticky back stabilizer in my hoop because these are patches, so everything was prepped the way I always do, the topper was doubled, all was basted into place…and 20 [...]
Reproduction dress test
Ok, pic of the first test:

(One of these days I will really learn to use one of my photo software packages so I can make pics like this the best they can be, but no time now. So sorry that they are not perfect. And yes, there are pieces of thread that I did not trim…it’s a test!!))
The youngest diva and I stood there and watched a lot of this stitch out. You would think it was all magic the way we become so fascinated. I would be lying if I said my attention to it is purely professional as I am just as excited watching the stitches take shape as my 8 yr-old is, but I do also learn a lot about the designs and things I need to fix by watching the machine do its thing.
If you look closely at the above pic, you can see some rippling, some shadows, and off-kilter lines. Why? Because I got lazy, and I still needed to adjust some stitch densities. My laziness means I did not prep the fabric the way I would the actual dress pieces, so the fabric could not stand up to the stitches which caused a lot of rippling and nap diving (burrowing into the velvet) even though I still used a topper. My bad…however, I think that may also have helped to make it very clear where I still needed to adjust stitch densities and satin stitch widths.
A bit closer here:

This one gives a sense of how small this all is as you can see some microscopic dust (a decorating choice in this house), and the weave of the velvet! You can also see how off center things got because I did not stabilize well enough. You’d think I was a rookie…
So, I spent a few hours re-working the designs, checking and adjusting every line and shape…I dreamed all night long that the blue feathers on the eagle kept growing and changing and re-swirling different directions. Do you think my embroidery dreams are evidence of psychosis??
My embroidery hubris made me take my next test a bit more seriously. I interfaced the velvet first with a woven fusible then fused Decorbond to that. After I hooped my sticky back, I then used a heavy duty tear away behind that…I contemplated using 2 layers of the tear away, but worried that might have been an overkill that would cause skipped stitches.
This test was much better all the way around.

There are still some shadows from the nap of the velvet, but no rippling or nap diving. All of the braid lines stayed lined up though I still went back into the design files to make the satin stitch even just a bit wider to try to fill in the remaining gaps between the satin stitch columns and the back stitch outlines.
Here is the eagle that haunted my dreams:

The winged lion:

The gryphons and a braid:

The nessies:

Bodice front with the birds, serpent braid, and red braids…you can see clearly here that the satin stitch inside the braids needs to be wider…that just bugs me!

And lastly the vertical braids which also got a bit more tweaking after this:

I sent the test piece off to Colleen who will see the family that wants the reproduction at a feis this weekend…is it CNY? Colleen called me when she got it this afternoon, and she was as excited as I am about this little thing! So nice to hear her voice. One of these days I hope I get to meet some of my fellow dressmakers in person…such great people!
ETA: More curve on the learning curve! We decided to use a gold metallic in place of the tan thread in the designs. It was a particular kind of metallic from Madeira meant to be strong. Yeah…so freaking strong that my machine would not cut it so this is what the stitch out looked like!

Yuck, boo, hiss!!! No time to find a similar color in a different thread, so I went back in to re-do the embroidery sequence. Thank goodness I consider this kind of challenge to be FUN!!
I wrote about the beginning of this journey here: Newest Endeavor
The Cost of Embroidery
Feb 22
Big, big, multiples sighs…the Sneetches are at it once more. Dressmakers are being accused of “highway robbery” again. So that I can maintain a detached, calm stance, I am going to assume that is mainly directed at the BNs (big names). It has not yet been said in the voy board post to which I [...]



















